Shameless Advertising

Maputo has very lax advertising laws. What they need is a dose of government intervention in their free market. One of the biggest companies operating in Maputo is mcel. They are arguably the most popular cellphone provider. The competition (Vodafone) focuses on monthly paying customers which are heavily outnumbered by the prepaying customers. I am a mcel customer and I am apolled at their extravagant advertisements that are plastered all over the city. For example, they have an ad that covers the entire side of a large apartment building on Av. Julius Nyerere. I swear if you look hard enough you too (that’s right you reading this) can see the yellow glow from the ad.

However, with all the negative things I could say about their marketing initiatives I must add that they are very effective. On almost any street corner in Maputo you can find one or more mcel street vendors. Mostly youth who wearing a yellow mcel apron who sell the prepaid phone cards. They are everywhere! I suppose they are a good way of cheap distribution while simultaneously providing many employment opportunities. However, it just seems like any competitor would have no chance in trumping mcel and their tag phrase “tudo bon”.

Picture 1: See shameless advertisement for mcel

Picture 2: See a mobile mcel representative increasing his target audience by expanding his coverage area.

Security

I always say that security comes at the expense of freedom. In Maputo you get away with a lot. You can drive like a maniac, use the street as your personal litter bin, setup shop and do business on any street corner you choose, eat and drink and be merry anytime anywhere anyhow, and catch this one… you can even buy pirated DVDs. Can you imagine!?!

But all of this comes with some pretty stringent taxes on your security. There are many precautions that are employed by residences and businesses alike here in Maputo.

Security technique number 1: the security guard. They come in all different uniforms with varying degrees of competence and ability to stay awake at night. Unfortunately these security guards only protect you within a very confined context. They won’t defend against people with guns, or knives, or any other weapon which could hurt you. They can’t guarantee they will be awake when someone tries to burglarize you. They only have two eyes so they can’t see everything. They are proned to leaving their posts to congregate around the hot spot … that is the local checkers game at the guard post down the street. And they definitely are not going to over exert themselves. So if you run they won’t chase you. What they will do is throw a big stone after any stupid kids who disrupt their sleep or checkers game.

Security technique number 2: the “attack dog”. Quite often they are stray dogs that are really just very hungry. They key to diffusing their aggression – food.

Security technique number 3: the electrical fence. I have no idea if these things actually work. But they look daunting enough that I am not going to even think about testing them out.

Security technique number 4: simple locks and deadbolts. The most commonly used and for good reason. They work. My flat for example has two.

Security technique number 5: Don’t ask questions … just run. I tell everyone that the best defence is a strong offense. In other words, if someone tries to attack you, run like you are headed for that goal line. Run Forrest Run!!!!

You have what???

Last week when I was at capoeira there was a woman there I had never seen there before. During the second half of training we usually ‘play’. This is when we form a circle and 2 people at a time fight for lack of a better term. Anyway, this woman – who we will call Dolinda – fought the entire class (including me) one by one. After the class she was exhausted and the instructor asked her why she looked so tired. She responded, because I’m just getting over malaria.

Now maybe its just me, but I think being infected with malaria is relevant information I would like to know BEFORE I decide to fight you. Because in doing so we get in fairly close quarters with one another and maybe this is my paranoia kicking in…but I just want to know tidbits of information like that.

Anyway, I talked about it with my fellow capoeira students and they weren’t troubled by her revelation. Am I missing something…?

Pedestrians – Exercise extreme caution when crossing streets

Forget warnings about muggings, malaria and HIV. Newcomers to Maputo should watch out for those 4 – and sometimes 2 – wheeled bandits when crossing the busy streets of Maputo. Contrary to the bylaws in Toronto, it appears that in Maputo cars have the ABSOLUTE right of way. By that I mean you better run, and run fast, when you see a car approaching. Because if it decides to turn on the driveway you are crossing it ain’t stoppin’!!!!

I sometimes find myself falling into my suburbian ways and expect cars to stop 5 meters from me as I cross a street. Because back in Milton it is terribly rude to even try and hurry a pedestrian as they cross the street. Drivers who attempt to hurry pedestrians are greeted with frowns and shouts of profanities in addition to the you better stop standing position. This is when you begin crossing a street, and you see a car approaching that doesn’t seem like it wants to stop. So what do you do, you stop dead in your tracks and make sure they know you mean business and they had better stop. These antics will get you killed in Maputo pretty quickly.

Rules of the road #1 – cars have the right of way. If you see one, keep your eyes on it until it passes you because you never know when he or she might decide to turn. And without brakes or a horn its kind of difficult to warn straying pedestrians.

Book #3 – Innovation Nation

A few days ago I finished my 3rd book in the past 6 weeks – I am on a tear! Innovation Nation written by John Kao delivers a message about the urgent requirement for a comprehensive strategy to reignite the innovative engine of the United States. He feels alarmed by the nation’s ever-duller cutting edge. He delivers clear examples of nations who in the latter half of the 20th century have caught up and surpassed the economies of established players in the global landscape. For example, Singapore has sprinted ahead of far larger countries that lack the island nation’s disciplined commitment to innovation leadership. Singapore’s Bipolis research center is run by Philip Yeo who is also know as the serial kidnapper. He seeks out eager, young high-tech students, who come to Singapore from all over the world, and offers them scholarships to the best U.S. and European universities. They receive $750K USD over 5 years of study. Other initiatives to foster world class education in Singapore include the “global schoolhouse,” with a cluster of the world’s best educational institutions including MIT, Duke, NYU, and the University of Chicago’s Graduate School of Business.

John also writes about other nations which have plans formulated through productive collaboration at the most senior levels of government. Ireland used to be one of the poorest nations in Western Europe. Since 1985, its GDP has tripled and it is now among the wealthiest. Finland has the same population as metropolitan Atlanta. But today, it is a world leader in technology, symbolized by Nokia, maker of the planet’s most ubiquitous cell phones, with 35% of the global market share. And why is Finland so accomplished you ask? Because they invest in human capital. Finland has an exemplary education system. They spend 6.4% of their GDP on education, compared to 5.7% for the USA. University students receive financial grants, housing allowances, and government-guaranteed loans which would make the paltry Canadian government loans look like petty cash. As a result, Finland is now widely credited with producing the world’s best students in the world’s best schools….wow!!!!

But what is the lesson to be learned from all of this? Well, for one, size does not matter in the global competitive landscape. Competition for qualified competent human capital is fierce. How does a nation compete? It requires a two pronged attack. Invest in education; and make its pastures attractive to the best and brightest people of the world.

Mozambique unfortunately is falling behind on both fronts. The number of street youth I see on a daily basis is troubling. One idea I have been bouncing around is getting a youth drop in shelter setup. These are pretty common in Toronto. They offer a place to wash up, eat a decent meal, talk to councilors and get a good night’s rest in a safe environment. Well, at least safer then on the streets.

Police Corruption

I was stopped by police twice on the weekend. In both instances my friends and I did nothing wrong and were not acting conspicuously.

On Saturday afternoon I went to Chiango. It is about 30 minutes drive from where I live. We drove down the familiar beach road, when suddenly turned into a dirt road, and then into a trail barely traversable without a 4x4. My colleague took me to his little sanctuary. It was a plot of land abou 100 meters by 40 meters. Large enough to plant some banana trees, cherry tomatoes, and some other small crops. He also built up a gazebo and a small room to store things. Its his mini sanctuary in the middle of nowhere. So, naturally, we lit up a fire and started a BBQ!

On the way back, at about dusk, we were stopped by police. They were doing a routine check of driver license documents. The driver's international license was questioned but eventually he let us continue on our way without a long delay. My second encounter with police was not so uneventful...

On Saturday, we were stopped in the evening in the beach front area. It is known to be a little sketchy at night. Anyway, we were on a street that was not well light when we were flagged by an officer to pullover. He asked for the car's documents which were all legit. Then, he made up some law that said that we were not allowed to be in that area at night since we were foreigners. He then demanded money. We refused. His gun was raised. Might I add, it was a very big gun, an AK-47 at that. We rescinded our stance and started scrambling for some change.

I don't think he would ever really shoot. Nobody did. However, it wasn't worth the chance. We paid him a few dollars and we were on our merry way. Albeit, a little flustered and shaken.

Resume 101: Skills

On Wednesday I was translating bank records into electronic documents. One of the Foundation's banks have not entered the new millennium and continue to send only paper statements instead of electronic statements of account. I can not do much with hard documents, and furthermore, I find them very cumbersome. So I go green and do everything electronic. Anyway, I thought it was a task that I could get one of the staff here to help me with so I got my partner Victorino to assign it to the administrator.

Today, two days later, after several requests I finally received the bank records translated into electronic documents. The point of this blog is not to criticize. Rather, I have come to the stark realization that there are skills that I have that I - and many of you reading - take for granted. Concepts which are so ingrained in Canadian society that they are not considered skills, rather ideologies or expectations if you will.

For example, I don't think it occurs to many here that time is a valuable asset. Time is not infinite and should not be wasted. At work in Toronto, we always define "deliverables" and plan their deadlines. It is a part of everyday life. Keeping a close track of time lends itself to monitoring productivity. Another concept which seems to elude so many. Now maybe I am exaggerating a little bit, but the point should be clear. Being punctual and time conscious is a skill.

Another skill which Generation Y possess is computer savviness. For those born in the 90s it probably isn't considered a skill, rather a prerequisite to daily life as necessary as knowing how to eat. However, this is a learned skill for much of the world.

After I pointed out the fact that the bank records were not translated accurately after 2 days, my coworker remarked that the skills of the administrator were not very developed. It hadn't even occurred to me that not everyone knows how to traverse the complicated Microsoft Office Excel, or even a computer at that.

Moral of the story: Acknowledge all those skills you have acquired over your entire life that allow you to do everything it is that you do. Now share those skills and change other peoples' lives.

Some Fruits of my Labour

A little preamble...for those of you who are allergic to hearing about finance and corporate governance, skip to the next blog.

The past few days I have been working on preparing the Board of Directors policy and procedures. It is a governance document which outlines the Board's roles and responsibilities. It serves as a framework to the Foundation's expectations of them and vice versa. It is quite lengthy and reading it can put even the well intentioned to sleep. But it is an important document. It sets the tone at the top and will hopefully harvest a sound governance environment.

Most of my clients back home are well established companies that have written policies and procedures for everything from hiring to firing, stealing to cleaning. However, since the Mutola Foundation is growing - it currently has about 15 employees at the head office and about an equal amount out in the field - it is still developing into an efficient organization with functioning processes. I have heard it before, I am now saying it, and you will probably hear it again. Volunteering is very rewarding and you - that's right you reading - should try it!

The Executive Director has given me great latitude in my work. He seeks out my opinion and trusts my judgment. It is up to me to figure out the what needs to be done to get the finances of this organization in order. I can't take all the credit. My trusty partner - Victorino Adriano - has been with me every step of the way educating me on Mozambican laws and the Foundation's background. Muito obrigado.

Fish Market - Attempt #1

On Sunday afternoon, we walked over to the fish market. It was a leisurely hour and a half walk down the beach road to the fish market. Along the way we stopped for some fresh water coconuts. Upon entering the fish market we were bomarded with offers for fish, prawns, squid, and a variety of other products of the sea. A few times I had to juke to the side to avoid splashing fish water which was stirred up in all the commotion. I would have more pictures inside the actual fish market but I was a little concerned that if I took out my camera it might not make it back to my apartment in one piece, if at all. Stay tuned though, I will take some pictures on my next excursion to the fish market.

So after picking out a hardy fish and some prawn we proceeded to select a vendor who cooked our food to perfection. Of course we requested the healthy grilled option. After what seemed like an eternity, our food arrived in courses. First, crab a la carte. Second, prawns to warm up for the main course...grilled garopa with salad and batata (fries).

While we were eating we were offered everything under the sun. Paintings, peanuts, beads, even a jewellery box. One painting in particular peeked my interest (see picture).

Apparently we were much bigger after leaving the 'marcado de peixes' (fish market) so some of us ended up in the trunk. (see picture)

Catembe

On Friday afternoon, we left the office at a reasonable hour and walked over to the dock where we took a ferry across the harbour to Catembe. It is located across the bay - a 3 hour drive by car or a 15 minute ferry ride by boat. It is like a whole other country over there. Instantly, you are removed from the busy city streets of Maputo and taken to a serene countryside. After cramming as many people and cars into the boat, we set sail for Catembe. A mixture of visiting tourists from South Africa, commuters going home, and people like us just going for some food and drink.

Kevin, Lina and I walked the dirt road to our eventual destination - a local eatery. We dined on locally caught prawns, which were fabulous by the way, and some fish steaks grilled to perfection. We washed it all down with some cold ones.

If the food wasn't enough to satisfy my curiousity, the view certainly was. Maputo looked gorgeous! After it started to get dark the view was even better. The coastline light up by the shopping centres and restaurants. Shortly thereafter we decided to head back to the mainland. A trip around Maputo without a little scare. I delayed as long as I could before embarking on our 15 minute journey to avoid an inevitable sea sickness. The boat to take us back was one of the local private operators. It was cramped, damp, and stunk of burnt diesel fuel. But, we made it safe and sound...yeah!

Class #3 - Capoeira and "the ring"

Last night I had my third class of capoeira, well actually it was the second and a half class. My second class was cut short due to my first run in with the Mozambican police which I described in a previous post.

It was an intense training session. I introduced my coworker Kevin to the class. His first comment was an acute observation. We were actually working out in a pint sized basketball court. But we made do just fine.

We went up and down the court strengthening our core and developing our balance. I think I am on the verge of being able to sustain a hand stand. A childhood dream is about to come true!

Although the movements are slow and very deliberate, they are incredibly difficult. At any one moment you must simultaneously feel the beat of the music, observe your opponent, move in a graceful manner and pull off poses and twists and turns which challenge even the superfit.

Kevin and I got some more focused instruction by the lead instructor to get us up to speed on some of the more basic steps. So in addition to "jinga" (the basic defensive step), we learned the leg sweep and the "negativo" (used to dodge the leg sweep of your opponent). Who would have thought that a leg sweep required a great deal of agility and balance that I apparently do not have an abundance of.

So after training for the first hour, we got into the "rogba". We form a circle and play the instruments of capoeira (dru, tambarine, guitar). Then the sparring begins. My turn came up and shockingly I didn't feel nervous at all. After watching it for two classes I anticipated my romp with my opponent.

First, I started with my imitation of a hold. Okay, then on to the jinga. Okay, ready, now a leg sweep. (Thud) That was me dropping to the ground. Well actually I didn't drop and instead I succeeded to spar for the next few minutes - an exhilirating experience!!! I can't wait for class 4.

Book #2 - Barack Obama - Odacity of Hope

I completed my second book night before last. I am guilty of judging this book by its cover and assuming it was a Barack Obama biography. Instead, I read about Barack's political agenda and critique of the current state of American politics. He discusses the lack of meaningful factual debate between the two political parties. Instead, Democrats and Republicans ignore the factual content of their opponents arguments and push forward their own agendas.

"I am convinced that whenever we exaggerate or demonize, oversimplify or overstate our case, we lose. Whenever we dumb down the political debate, we lose. For it's precisely the pursuit of ideological purity, the rigid orthodoxy and the sheer predictability of our current political debate, that keeps us from finding new ways to meet the challenges we face as a country. It's what keeps us locked in "either/or" thinking: the notion that we can only have big government or no government; the assumption that we must either tolerate forty-six million without health insurance or embrace "socialized medicine." (BARACK OBAMA, The Audacity of Hope)

He talks very openly about his opinion on Democratic and Republican politics. He does not withold blame from his own party, but definitely lays significant blame to the Republican blame, which is in part to the fact that the presiding President is in his second term representing the Republican party and in several years gone past, the House was a Republican majority. But enough about politics, Barack has quite an interesting vision of America.

His ideology appeals to a logical conclusion that we can not simply rely on the open-market to cure all the ailments of America. He states that America is "...based on the simple idea that we have a stake in one another, and that what
binds us together is greater than what drives us apart, and that if enough
people believe in the truth of that proposition and act on it, then we might not
solve every problem, but we can get something meaningful done." (BARACK OBAMA, The Audacity of Hope) I think this is part of the reason why I am here. I feel a sense of obligation to help people I may never see or know, but yet, their struggle is - at least partly - mine as well.

There is one other area that I wanted to highlight from the book. The American Dream is the belief that anyone who goes to the USA empowered with discipline, tenacity, and a willingness to assimilate to the American culture, can succeed in building a life which can benefit their children. They do not have to be priviledge to royal bloodlines, bribe corrupt government officials, or degrade themselves in acts of indignity. America is the land of opportunities.

The possibility that I could have been born from parents in some far off place like Maputo, Mozambique where quality health care and education are a luxury absolutely terrifies me. What makes me so lucky and priviledged to grow up in a country like Canada where I enjoy the freedom to do nothing at all and still be guaranteed service at the hospital. Before I digress into a rant on the spoiled and ungrateful let me stop myself.

Anyway, the book was great. Barack is without a doubt a verbose lawyer and eloquent speaker. He embodies the face of the new emerging America. If elected as President, I feel he could help salvage the image of America imprinted on the rest of the world.

Policia

On Tuesday night I had my first run-in with the police. I left my flat just after 6pm to walk a few blocks away to capoeira. It was dry that hour due to the early sunset of the winter sun. It was only my second time going to capoeira so I needed a little extra direction to get there.

As my friend and I turned the corner we were instantly greeted by four (4) police officers asking for our originais (passport documents). "Let me see passporte", they said. (By the way, that's not a typo either). I never carry my passport around with me. I got a notarized copy of my passport the first week I was here and I usually carry that around with me. But of course the one time I don't carry it on me the policia decide it was time for a 'random stop'.

"Desculpe! No passport" Excuse me no passport I pleaded. Luckily, one of the officers was quite young and spoke very good English. He had the kindest looking face so I started talking with him explaining our circumstances. They wanted no part of it and continued to probe further, "What is in that bag?" My friend opened up his knap sack with his computer. "What is that? Is it legal?" the officer inquired. He wanted to see some sort of legal document for it, presumably a receipt, which we did not have. We continued to plead our case.

Then the officer cut to the chase, "How do we know you are not here illegally? How do we know the computer is not illegal? What do you suggest we do?" From his undertone it was pretty clear to me what he wanted - a fresca (drink). I informed him he was welcome to come over AFTER capoeira and he could drink all the soda his heart desired. However, at that moment I had no intention in giving him money to leave us alone.

He finally succumb to reason, and decided to let us go. I insisted we would return after capoeira with our passport documents, but he said it was okay, he was certain he would see us again. And he would ask for more than a fresca the next time.

Xima

I went to Xima - pronounced Sheema - on Saturday evening with some friends after dinner. They thought I would I would enjoy the live music and intimate atmosphere.

I was shocked when the band came onto the make-shift stage and started playing the mellow tunes of the legend Bob Marley. From reading my blogs, you will probably realize I refer to Bob with reverence. The singer varied his singing between the English and Portugese language. His attire was rastapharian militant style accentuated with a colonel hat. But the dress was merely a costume because he was a warm and jovial performer. He had the entire crowd dancing and singing along.

It does not surprise me that Mozambicans know or even love reggae music. What with the heavy bass line and comforting lyrics, they can identify with the passionate peace offering Bob sings about. Wherever my travel brings me I always make a point of checking with locals whether they have been exposed to reggae music, and if not, I am armed with a laptop and many websites to refer them.

Daily Sights and Sounds

Most days after work I head to the gym after dinner. On my short journey to the gym I pass the corner of Av 24 de Julho and Julius Nyarere. Most times of the day this corner is bustling with 'mobile merchants' selling artifacts for tourists, prepaid cellphone time, and pretty much anything else you could want. On some days I am stopped more times than I care to remember as I must look very foreign. On other days hardly anyone stops me as I must blend in a little better.

There are two kids that I see almost every night as I return from the local cafe where I browse the internet. I know they have spotted me when I hear out "chef! chef!" (Boss! Boss!) They call out to me and then extend their hand asking for some change to buy pao (bread). So here is my dilemna...How do I rationalize not giving away whatever change I have to these kids so that they can buy a meal.

I have spoken with a few of my friends here and they have differing opinions on the matter. Firstly, we are all volunteers and we have to worry about feeding ourselves before we can take on the insurmountable - feeding the whole of Maputo. I agree with these sentiments, however, I am certain I could survive on less than I currently consume. As a matter of fact, these children have to everyday.

Another rebuttal I hear is that a lot of these kids make a decent living (by Mozambican standards) begging on the street. They are capable of 'earning' around $1000 Meticais per day which is equivalent to $40 Canadian. To put that in perspective, the average Mozambican earns approximately $800 (20,000 Meticais) per YEAR. (https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/print/mz.html). I believe there is some truth to these remarks. When a child goes to the streets (whether voluntarily or involuntarily) there is a disincentive to integrating back into society and attending school. To the boys, it does not make sense to go to school when they can earn $1000 Meticais NOW.

Thirdly, there are alternatives for the children. There are programs that offer free meals and coaching. To a certain extent the children choose to lead these lives. Although this is true, there are not enough programs for the volume of children who are impoverished.

Another argument is that there are more effective ways of helping the people of Mozambique. For example, the foundation I work for not only provides free scholarships to select girls in rural parts of Mozambique, but they stimulate the economy through the acquisition of goods and services and the employment of locals. In other words, instead of giving away a $1, create a job that allows people to sustain themselves and not be self-sufficient.

Capoeira

Yesterday, I tried "capoeira". Wikipedia defines it as
"a blend of martial art, game, and dance originated in Brazil, from the regions known as...Rio de Janeiro... The art-form started up in Brazil during the 16th Century...Capoeira was created and developed by slaves brought from Africa. Participants form a roda (circle) and take turns playing instruments, singing, and sparring in pairs in the center of the circle. The game is marked by fluid acrobatic play, feints, and extensive use of groundwork, as well as sweeps, kicks, and headbutts."

By no means am I a master, but I was able to get the basic 1-2 step and do a couple handstands, who knew? Its a great workout for upper / lower body strength and cardio. The guys who teach it are amazing, they can walk around on their hands all day. I have more modest goals since they have been doing it for years and I will only be in Maputo for 2.5 more months. I can't believe I am saying that, "Only" 2.5 more months. Time is already flying by too quickly.

So I've tried salsa, street futbol (soccer on concrete), capoeira, and speaking Portugese. What's next...

Here are some videos on youtube that exemplify some of the best in capoeira. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51q1VB_dDik&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdZXp0Tq6Jk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Mf_PTB8juc&feature=related