Tofo – Day 1

Saturday morning we attempted the same journey again. We decided the only way to guarantee we would wake up for the bus which departs at 5:30am is to stay awake all night, so we did. Guess where the first stop was for the bus? That’s right…the bus station. The bus left Fatima’s at 5:30 am but it wasn’t quite full. So the combrador (bus conductor) solicited more riders to fill our bus and make the 9 hour journey thoroughly uncomfortable.

We finally departed the bus station at 7am after picking up a lady with chickens – I kid you not – and a man carrying horse meat. The driver seemed to drive at speeds near Mach 1. I am no slouch in the car myself, but it was a little unnerving when we could feel the bus going so fast that the rear wheels were not consistently in contact with the road. Not that the road was particularly well paved or existent for that matter. But nonetheless there was road and the bus didn’t seem to stay on it.

It is amazing the skills you pick up when you travel. During the 9 hour journey I became an expert at sleeping while sitting up. I placed my bag on my lap and slouched over and it was as if I was enjoying a restful night in a 5-star hotel….

2:30pm…alas…Tofo!!! We were dropped off at Fatima’s in Tofo and it was a short 10 minute walk to Alcatraz…I mean Albatroze. Our cabin had 4 beds, a mini kitchen, a bathroom, and a living room with a couple couches. All the essentials. It was on a slope overlooking the Indian Ocean. The sound of the ocean was never beyond earshot. The sound at night was mystifying. It was as if the ocean was right outside my bedroom door. I wish I could give the sound justice through my words…

Saturday we night we headed over to Dino’s. It’s a local place that was owned by a local Mozambican. It is a very well established place that was like a little tourist haven – Western in its style – a hybrid of college pub and beach bar. Unfortunately Dino was not very happy with his establishment and committed suicide a few months ago. His mural stood above the bar as a reminder to his good spirited nature…his legacy.