After visiting the Hlane Royal National Park we made our way to Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. (http://www.biggameparks.org/3parks_mlilwane.html) “Mlilwane, Swaziland’s pioneer conservation area, is a beautiful, secluded sanctuary situated in Swaziland’s “Valley of Heaven”, the Ezulwini Valley, in between Mbabane and Manzini.”
There we stayed in hostels in Sondzela. That’s right, my first hostel. And quite honestly it was much nicer than I expected. There really isn’t a term in the English language to accurately describe the accommodation. The small houses had one room, one sink, 2 beds and some small furniture. They kept cool during the day and remained comfortable during the cool nights. They locked and had windows so mosquitoes were a non-issue, although I took no chances and slept with a mosquite net all the same. The showers were shared facilities cleaned regularly by the staff. The main cabin had pool, badminton, a tv, and a kitchen. Meals were enjoyed outdoors in a picnic area and there was even an inground pool to cool you off on those really hot days (I estimate it was above 40 degrees Celsius).
The Milwane Wildlife Sanctuary has 1000s of acres of protected space (4560 hectares to be exact) where animals roam freely. The animals have the ‘right of way’ and don’t have many predators to worry about. There are no lions in this park, although there are crocodiles and there is no sure way of keeping leopards out since they are talented leapers (they can jump fences if a tree grows too closely). So this all allows for an amazing experience where humans and animals live alongside eachother in relative harmony.
On Sunday afternoon we went for a horse ride exploring the deeper parts of the park. I’ll admit, I was a little apprehensive at first – what with the limited training and horses that weren’t particularly responsive to the trainers commands – but I faced my fears and pressed on.
I hopped aboard “African Ace” and she seemed quite comfortable with my 70 kilos on her. I told the trainers I had not ridden before – except for once in Cuba on some malnutritioned horses – so they gave me a horse that wasn’t too unruly. That’s right, not “too” unruly. Very reassuring words (sarcasm).
With a gentle kick into her side we were off. Whoa!!!! After leaving the confines of the main camp we were out in the countryside and it was absolutely gorgeous. Zebras were grazing alongside warthogs (ugly little creatures) and gazelle of course. One girl’s horse was completely lathergic and kept holding up our progress. African Ace decided it was time for a snack and bent over to eat, my hands were clinging to the harness and I nearly flew over the top of her. I was reassured by my mates that this was normal and not to worry.
After nearly an hour and a half atop African Ace my rear end was ready to call it quits. Then African Ace decided to get a little “unruly” kicking at the horse behind me. I thought she was trying to buck and throw me off her. I tried to keep my squeals inaudible and remain calm. The guide behind me apologized because his horse got too close to African Ace and she gets very weary when that happens because she thinks “Colt” is going to go ahead of her. He then laughed at me uncontrollably.
Just as we re-entered the confines of the main camp we saw a monument erected to remind all visitors of the area’s troubled past. There were over 20,000 snares captured from the lands when poaching was outlawed. A constant reminder to the fragile nature of the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary.
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